Post from Tim:
The ferry dropped us off on the sleepy island of Folegandros with a handful of other passengers. Only 561 people live on the island year round, but the population swells with tourists in the summer. By the look of the empty streets we had clearly arrived outside of high season.
An empty bus hauled us up to the cliffside town of Hora on a road flanked by terraced farming hills. From above, the island probably looked like a life size topographical map. But from the bus, the dry rocky terrain outside of town looked desolate - supporting only desert shrubs, dry grasses, and a few stunted trees.
Once in Hora our bus driver discreetly asked if we needed a room. His shady demeanor made us a little nervous and his offer sounded too much like a drug dealer offering "good stuff." But we followed him anyway and found a room far nicer than any we had stayed in months. With a TV, phone, fridge, and lots of other details not typically present in our budget trip, shady or not, the deal was too good to pass up.
The town looked fantastic. Wasting no time, we dropped our backpacks and left to explore.
Hora's adobe-styled buildings reminded me of the American Southwest - thick walls, rounded corners, and graceful archways. But the brilliant whitewash and deep blue trim that covered the town set it apart from anything I'd seen before. The contrast with the clear blue sky and surrounding sea was fantastic. The blue and white landscape felt uniquely Greek.
Seven hundred years of history graces Hora with a timeless feel, from the old domed churches that cast white crosses against the Aegean sky, to the play of odd angles in the medieval section of town. A soft peace floated through the air and quieted my mind like meditation.
Looking through town was the visual equivalent of a deep breath of fresh country air, where my vision became clearer and crisper than normal. Perhaps it is the dry air, strong sun, or contrasts in color that heightened my senses. But for whatever reason, I felt as though I just removed a pair of sunglasses only to discover that they were filthy and obscuring my vision. Suddenly, everything became sharp and beautiful and Hora was of my favorite destinations from this year of travel.
An empty bus hauled us up to the cliffside town of Hora on a road flanked by terraced farming hills. From above, the island probably looked like a life size topographical map. But from the bus, the dry rocky terrain outside of town looked desolate - supporting only desert shrubs, dry grasses, and a few stunted trees.
Once in Hora our bus driver discreetly asked if we needed a room. His shady demeanor made us a little nervous and his offer sounded too much like a drug dealer offering "good stuff." But we followed him anyway and found a room far nicer than any we had stayed in months. With a TV, phone, fridge, and lots of other details not typically present in our budget trip, shady or not, the deal was too good to pass up.
The town looked fantastic. Wasting no time, we dropped our backpacks and left to explore.
Hora's adobe-styled buildings reminded me of the American Southwest - thick walls, rounded corners, and graceful archways. But the brilliant whitewash and deep blue trim that covered the town set it apart from anything I'd seen before. The contrast with the clear blue sky and surrounding sea was fantastic. The blue and white landscape felt uniquely Greek.
Seven hundred years of history graces Hora with a timeless feel, from the old domed churches that cast white crosses against the Aegean sky, to the play of odd angles in the medieval section of town. A soft peace floated through the air and quieted my mind like meditation.
Looking through town was the visual equivalent of a deep breath of fresh country air, where my vision became clearer and crisper than normal. Perhaps it is the dry air, strong sun, or contrasts in color that heightened my senses. But for whatever reason, I felt as though I just removed a pair of sunglasses only to discover that they were filthy and obscuring my vision. Suddenly, everything became sharp and beautiful and Hora was of my favorite destinations from this year of travel.