Day 217: Festival

Post from Tim:

We heard one traveler say, "I've come to the conclusion that the air in Pai is lazy." I couldn't describe the town more clearly myself. It radiates calmness and serenity while simultaneously sucking from you any productive ambition you once displayed. So days are just spent relaxing and enjoying life.

Today's full moon seemed to agree. It rose from behind the mountains as slowly as people ambled down Pai's darkened streets. (We witnessed its rise riverside with drinks in hand.) The moon followed us through the dirt streets and down an alley lit by torches, to the field where tonight's full moon cultural festival was being staged.

A bonfire illuminated the center of the field with a dancing circle of light. Several straw mats were scattered around the field, illuminated by candlelit, so we chose the closest one to the warm fire and settled down for what turned out to be a long evening.

The Shan hilltribe men started the night, playing local music with their traditional bamboo instruments while we ate dinner. The music complimented such local dishes as pumpkin and tofu curries, pork, cabbage, eggplant, and rice.

After dinner, five Lisu hilltribe women danced around the fire wearing a strange mix of traditional clothes and thick Spice Girl shoes. A lone male musician playing a wind instrument circled opposite them in what looked like a courtship dance, wooing the women with his ability to dance and play simultaneously.

Other tribes danced to a different tune, such as the two women in bird costumes who danced to the offbeat music created by a five-foot high Coke bottle shaped drum and five gongs. What other music would sound better for dancing around a fire with wings strapped to your back?

Later in the night, the hilltribe people said their good-byes and handed the music over to the foreigners. Old hippie, folk, and Irish tunes filled my ears and, for better or worse, made me forget for a moment what country I was in.

There I sat under the full moon - next to a fire, listening to music, eating sticky rice, enjoying the company of friends, and hanging out with nothing to do. I'd found the essence of Pai.

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