Stories From Thailand

Map of Hat Yai, Thailand

Day 136: Arriving in Thailand

Hat Yai, Thailand

We arrived in Thailand today. This is the 9th country we've visited! We celebrated with a wonderful dinner of Tom Yam soup and steamed sea bass. Tomorrow we head to the west coa

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Day 138: Staying Put

Ko Lanta, Thailand

Enough with the long bus rides. We've arrived to Ko Lanta and plan to stay about a week. The narrow island is about 20 x 5 km and has one poorly paved road, wide beaches, and nothing much to do except

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Day 139: Thai Lesson

Ko Lanta, Thailand

Our off-season beach resort on Ko Lanta was nearly empty. With a full week to be productive on a quiet beach, I had the perfect chance to learn the basics of the Thai language. I worked thr

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Map of Ko Lanta, Thailand

Day 141: Family Travel

Ko Lanta, Thailand

I talked at length about this trip before I left. Most people told me how lucky I was to go and added, "I wish I could do that." I felt the most sympathy for those with a family and a house

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Day 142: Longboat Snorkeling

Ko Lanta, Thailand

We took the snorkel trip from hell. The boatman picked us up that morning half an hour late. His longboat was old -

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Day 143: Sunset

Ko Lanta, Thailand

This evening, Tim and I climbed over a hill at the end of the island into a cove. There, nestled by high cliffs, sat a small secluded beach, perfect for watching the sunset. The tide was ou

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Day 144: Bike to the Pier

Ko Lanta, Thailand

We were sorry to say goodbye to Ko Lanta, but were glad to hitch a ride to the pier from Chuey and the staff.

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Day 147: What About Bob?

Ao Nang, Thailand

Four months have passed since I last saw a friend from home. And although I've met plenty of new friends along the way, I was happy to hear that Bob was coming to Thailand. Bob is a "friend

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Map of Krabi, Thailand

Day 149: Still Going Strong

Krabi, Thailand

People are starting to ask us, after being on the road for 5 months, if we are getting tired - tired of not having the same bed to lie our heads on every night, tired of living out of a backpack, and

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Day 150: Kao San Road

Bangkok, Thailand

The night-bus dropped us off at 6 a.m. in a magnificently seedy place - on the backpacker slum of Kao San Road. At that early hour, the ratio of people drinking coffee and people drinking beer was dea

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Day 150: Welcome to Bangkok

Bangkok, Thailand

We just arrived in Bangkok. After wandering for a while down small streets and narrow alleys looking for a place to stay, we found a decent hotel to live in for a couple days. Home has become the plac

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Day 152: The River Boat

Bangkok, Thailand

Bangkok is one of the top cosmopolitan cities in Asia. To get around one can take a taxi, bus, tuk-tuk, motorcycle or walk. But my favorite is the riverboat. Through Bangkok runs the Choa P

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Day 153: Massage

Bangkok, Thailand

Thai massage is not gentle. It is a deep tissue, cracking, kicking, and squirming event. The massuse's hands are not enough to

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Map of Bangkok, Thailand

Day 154: Same, Same...but Different

Bangkok, Thailand

The women stared at me in confusion. It's a look I am getting used to. I am standing at a food cart on a busy street in Chinatown ordering steamed dumplings. But when I don't speak Thai, th

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Day 158: The Festival of Lights

Sukhothai, Thailand

Walking through the 13th century ruins of Sukhothai would normally fill me with a sense of historical awe. I'd marvel at the ancient capitol of Thailand, at its Buddhist temples, crumbling pillars, po

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Day 159: Vendors

Sukhothai, Thailand

The lively market of Sukhothai is full of friendly faces and interesting food.

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Day 191: Staying Put

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Yesterday we flew from Hanoi to Bangkok, then we took an overnight train north to Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is a beautiful old city full of character and charm. The Old City lies in the center, marked by

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 192: A Dining Experience

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Tonight, Tim and I set out to find a restaurant highlighted in our guidebook for its delicious fishball soup (ground fish shaped into small balls). We mistakenly walked pass the restaurant so ended up

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 193: Room for Rent

Chiang Mai, Thailand

We found our room and settled in - rent plus two bicycles for a month for less than $80. Why can't D.C. be this cheap?

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Day 195: Thai Massage Class

Chiang Mai, Thailand

One of our dreams of our trip was to take a Thai massage course in Thailand. We want to return home able to wow people with our magical hands û relaxing and stretching muscles until they melt. <

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Day 199: Massage: Week 1

Chiang Mai, Thailand

After week one of Thai massage class, we have discovered that I am as limber as Michelle is stiff. My muscles feel energized and full of life, while she is walking Chiang Mai like an 80 year old woman

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Map of Wat U-Mong, Thailand

Day 201: Buddhism

Wat U-Mong, Thailand

The Buddhist temple of Wat U-Mong is only a couple of kilometers outside of Chiang Mai - an easy distance on my one-gear mountain bike. I arrived with enough time to enjoy the 600-year-old temple's Bu

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 204: Healing Touch

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Yesterday, riding home from class on my bike, my pant leg got caught on a pedal. One minute I was enjoying the sun warming my face and the wind blowing through my hair; I was free, free from class, fr

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 205: Babies Home

Chiang Mai, Thailand

The sound of children tumbled towards us - squeals, laughter, cries. I led the way up the stairs as five friends from massage class followed. At the top of the stairs were brown doors; not knowing wh

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Day 206: Graduation

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Today we graduated from Thai massage class! I wouldn't say we are experts at this ancient art form, but after 60 hours of in-class practice, we have a solid foundation. And we have diplomas to prove i

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 208: The Power of Touch

Chiang Mai, Thailand

I brought Tim along on my return trip to the orphanage. The children piled on top of him, clambering for attention. He handled

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 209: Happy New Year!

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Just like everywhere else in the world, welcoming in a new year in Chiang Mai brings much celebration. Last night people dressed in their best to dine, party-goers sat in bars wearing festive hats swa

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Map of Chiang Mai, Thailand

Day 214: Thai Cooking Class

Chiang Mai, Thailand

Food in Southeast Asia is delicious. Our stomachs have grown large as evidence to this fact. Picture the Chinese Buddha with his round robust tummy happily protruding and his smile of contentment. Thi

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Day 216: Relaxing Pai

The sight of two small boys floating down the river, clutching bamboo poles to help them float, greets us. The current quickly carries them out of view. It has late afternoon and we just arrived in Pa

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Map of Pai, Thailand

Day 217: Festival

We heard one traveler say, "I've come to the conclusion that the air in Pai is lazy." I couldn't describe the town more clearly m

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Map of Pai, Thailand

Day 218: Elephant Ride

Elephants are huge. Forgive me for stating the obvious, but that was one of two thoughts running through my head before the

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Map of Pai, Thailand

Day 219: Burmese Children

A trickle of sweat rolls down the spine of my back. It tickles a little. The afternoon sun, high above, makes the white pages of my book glaring bright and I have to squint to read. I sit on the bunga

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Map of Chiang Kong, Thailand

Day 223: Border Town

Chiang Kong, Thailand

Though we have enjoyed our month in Chiang Mai, it is time to say good-bye to our familiar surroundings and move on to new places. On today's 7.5-hour bus ride - a ride plagued by the choki

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Map of Bangkok, Thailand

Day 238: National Pride

Bangkok, Thailand

It is early morning in Bangkok's busy central train station. We have just arrived on the night train from the border of Laos and have 11 hours to kill before the next train takes us to southern Thaila

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 239: Buddhist Retreat

Chaiya, Thailand

It's six in the morning and I am awake to watch the sunrise. We are on a train, heading south to Chaiya. There, we will participate in a ten-day silent meditation retreat at a Buddhist monastery. I li

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 240: Schedule

Chaiya, Thailand

One may ask what we do here at the Suan Mohhk Buddhist meditation retreat - how we fill our days. They keep us pretty busy, as this schedule will testify: 04:00 Rise

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 244: Symphony in Silence

Chaiya, Thailand

At the beginning, keeping silent for ten days seemed like a daunting task. But after five days I am finding it easy and peaceful, even preferable. It is refreshing to be in a group of 140 people and y

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 247: Dawn

Chaiya, Thailand

Every morning at 4 a.m. a bell rings, calling us away from our dreams. Night still lingers, the moon still shines, and it will be another three hours before the sun's rays arrive. I watch t

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 249: Self-Discovery

Chaiya, Thailand

The journey of self-discovery is a hard one. By the end of our retreat at Suan Mohhk, our 140-member group had dwindled down to a mere 100. Forty people couldn't handle something - the silence, the so

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Day 250: The Middle Path

Chaiya, Thailand

We ate just twice daily at Suan Mohhk - a bland breakfast of rice soup at 8:00 AM and coconut curry with brown rice for lunch at 12:30 PM. But that left 19.5 hours between meals with nothing more than

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Map of Ko Samui, Thailand

Day 250: Return to Civilization

Ko Samui, Thailand

We made it! After ten days of silence, deep reflection, early mornings and being separated from each other, the retreat was over. Who ever knew meditation could be so hard? As we stood outs

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Map of Ko Samui, Thailand

Day 255: Next Stop

Ko Samui, Thailand

We weighed our two options carefully: either an overnight train followed by 24 hours of travel on some of the worst roads in the world, or a quick 75-minute hop on a regional airline. We chose the eas

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