Stories From Month 9

Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 240: Schedule

Chaiya, Thailand

One may ask what we do here at the Suan Mohhk Buddhist meditation retreat - how we fill our days. They keep us pretty busy, as this schedule will testify: 04:00 Rise

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 244: Symphony in Silence

Chaiya, Thailand

At the beginning, keeping silent for ten days seemed like a daunting task. But after five days I am finding it easy and peaceful, even preferable. It is refreshing to be in a group of 140 people and y

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 247: Dawn

Chaiya, Thailand

Every morning at 4 a.m. a bell rings, calling us away from our dreams. Night still lingers, the moon still shines, and it will be another three hours before the sun's rays arrive. I watch t

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Map of Chaiya, Thailand

Day 249: Self-Discovery

Chaiya, Thailand

The journey of self-discovery is a hard one. By the end of our retreat at Suan Mohhk, our 140-member group had dwindled down to a mere 100. Forty people couldn't handle something - the silence, the so

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Day 250: The Middle Path

Chaiya, Thailand

We ate just twice daily at Suan Mohhk - a bland breakfast of rice soup at 8:00 AM and coconut curry with brown rice for lunch at 12:30 PM. But that left 19.5 hours between meals with nothing more than

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Map of Ko Samui, Thailand

Day 250: Return to Civilization

Ko Samui, Thailand

We made it! After ten days of silence, deep reflection, early mornings and being separated from each other, the retreat was over. Who ever knew meditation could be so hard? As we stood outs

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Map of Ko Samui, Thailand

Day 255: Next Stop

Ko Samui, Thailand

We weighed our two options carefully: either an overnight train followed by 24 hours of travel on some of the worst roads in the world, or a quick 75-minute hop on a regional airline. We chose the eas

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Map of Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Day 256: Genocide Horrors

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The images made my eyes physically hurt. Tim and I toured the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum in Phnom Penh. The 3-story buildings, surrounded by thick walls and barbed wire, were once a children's school.

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Day 257: Wild East

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Our guesthouse is in the middle of Phnom Penh, yet it sits on a dirt road so rutted and rocky that motorcycles can only weave past us at a slow crawl. And even at their slow pace, they churn up red du

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Map of Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Day 258: Bazooka

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The little boy in me laughed in giddy anticipation as we arrived to the shooting range. I'd heard it was actually possible there to shoot a rocket-propelled grenade and I obviously couldn't let such

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Day 260: The Temple of Doom

Siem Reap, Cambodia

It is easy to see why the movie Tomb Raider was filmed in the Angkor Wat area. The concentration of so many excellent ancient Buddhist and Hindu temples is staggering and, despite the thousands of tou

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Map of Siem Reap, Cambodia

Day 261: A Magical Tour

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Ta Prohm is a favorite temple of Angkor Wat tourists and the second I walk through its gates I understand why. It is one of the A

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Day 262: Children of Angkor Wat

Siem Reap, Cambodia

One of my favourite things about Angkor Wat were the many Cambodian children I met. Some were there because their parents worke

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Map of Mumbai (Bombay), India

Day 263: Flight 309

Mumbai (Bombay), India

Our flight from Bangkok to Mumbai in many ways is like any other flight - dry air that makes my hair limp, safety instructions I hope I never have to use, and smelly bathrooms. In my seat, somewhere h

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Map of Mumbai (Bombay), India

Day 265: Welcome to India

Mumbai (Bombay), India

India is not a place that travelers talk about with ambivalence - it is either loved or hated with equal passion. We have spoken to many people this year who have traveled extensively in this country

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Day 268: Indian Tourists

Mt. Abu, India

India is far too vast and varied a country to "do" in a month or two. It offers landscapes ranging from the Himalaya mountain range to the western Thar desert, plus the central plateau, plains, foothi

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Day 269: Short Hair

Mt. Abu, India

I find the women of India beautiful. They all have long, black flowing hair and wear bright colorful saris. The fabrics shimmer while their arms, covered in bangle bracelets, sparkle. Even the women I

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